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NEW SKINS Winter Collection 09-10

New Skins is a proposal for the latest 09/10 winter collection by the designer GORI DE PALMA, who explores the interpretation of cultural concepts through time.
New Skins also prompts reflection about generational changes over time and how these result in new readaptations, creating a certain disenchantment with the original whilst allowing for new spaces of creation.

The composition of this work stems from two specific meanings of the term "New Skins", related to two very different movements.

The first movement concerns skinheads as a youth culture, descendants of the mod movement, which emerged in 1969 from working-class neighbourhoods. With a very defined aesthetic inspired by the working class (shaved heads, checked shirts, braces, Harrington jackets and military boots), skinheads were united by a similar taste in music (ska, reggae, rocksteady, etc.) and clothes, as well as football and violence. Although contrary to popular belief, they were not originally racist and did not belong to any specific political group. They were a reflection of English working-class youth and, as such, had their own ideas.

The second movement concerns the New Wave as a new genre of music that emerged in the mid-seventies, and fragmented into numerous sub-genres and labels (New Romantic, Goth, postpunk, ska, alternative pop-rock, etc.) with scarcely defined limits. The New Wave label established itself in the music world linked to a sound and specific aesthetics, which were subsequently assimilated as aesthetic/popular ideological movements.
Dark bands such as Bauhaus, Joy Division, The Sisters of Mercy and Siouxsie & The Banshees form the focus for the construction of this project.

Intentionally distorting both trends, skinheads and the New Wave, Gori de Palma presents a collection that distances itself from conventionalism and preconceived attitudes, starting from confusion as to the very referential mould of the work, which becomes a conflict in terms of understanding the message.
The message is not at all clear; on the contrary, it appears to be scattered, blurred, fragmented and seeking new forms of expression. In short, this is an unconventional collection, with a clear atmospheric tension that requires a different reading.

New Skins deconstructs the order of references and orders its images according to a supposed source or movement that has never existed. The work, through this mechanism of ownership, creates a space for itself within this underworld of (sub)cultures, a place from which it can position itself aesthetically and socially.

Gori de Palma’s impeccable career has enabled him to work with Swarovski, Vans,
American Apparel and General Óptica, as well as to take part in a number of exhibitions at the CCCB (Barcelona) and Círculo de Bellas Artes (Madrid), demonstrating his critical vision of art, fashion and consumption.

Departament d'Innovació, Universitats i Empresa

With the collaboration of:

Ajuntament de Barcelona